Chiselborough became prosperous because of its location—sheep on its luscious hillside, water from springs and streams (including a Mill mentioned in Doomsday book – believed to be in the SW corner of the parish on the Parrett, or possibly where Little Norton mill now lies), Ham Stone and Chiselborough Hill Stone as a local building material, and glove making from as early as the 13th century. By the 17th century Somerset was the third most densely populated county in England and the south of the county was the most densely populated part. Within 10 miles of the village there were 7 regular weekly markets. From Saxon times South Petherton and Crewkerne had mints, in mediaeval times Ilchester, Montacute and Crewkerne were boroughs and Minster churches existed at Crewkerne, Ilminster and South Petherton.

Chiselborough was one of 91 places in Somerset that held fairs – an annual event held on St Luke’s Day (initially Oct 18th but moved in 1752, with the change of the calendar, to St Simon and St Jude’s day, October 29th. It certainly existed in 1529 – a 17th century description talks of a large fair for “horses, cattle and toys” (not children’s playthings but tools and utensils), though one version I read said the quote was “horses, cattle and hogs” (not easy to distinguish between hogs and toys in 17th century writing). Hazel nuts were described by another writer as “very vendable commodities”. The fair lasted until the coming of the railway towards the end of the 19th century.

Christianity in Somerset

When did Christianity come to Somerset? Well, it is argued, in its very infancy. Dunning begins his book on The History of Christianity in Somerset: “The Glastonbury legend tells us that Christianity was brought to Britain, in AD 63 or even earlier, by Joseph of Arimathea, at the request of the apostle Philip. He brought with him the Holy Grail, the chalice used at the last supper … they went directly to Glastonbury Tor (where) … Joseph thrust his staff into the ground and it immediately took root and budded”. The original Glastonbury Thorn was cut down in the 17th century, but its successor, taken from a slip of the original, still stands.

In fact Dunning is a good number of years out for, curiously, he doesn’t know that Jesus himself visited the county. There is a saying, which I heard as a youth, “As sure as Jesus came to Priddy” (-used in the same way as “Is the Pope a Catholic?”)

It seems that when Joseph of Nazareth died, Mary’s Uncle, Joseph of Arimathea, became Jesus’ guardian and he would take him on his travels. He visited the Cornish tin mines and, putting in at Watchet, walked over to Bridgwater, took a punt across the moors and came to the lead workings at Priddy.

More prosaically Dunning writes, “Exactly when Christianity came to Somerset we shall never know, but there is some evidence of it in Dorset in Roman times, and it is possible that the faith also went into Somerset”. Also writing in the early 1970’s, H M Porter, in The Celtic Church in Somerset, says “There is no proof whatever that there were Christians in Somerset in Roman Times”.

The present theory is that in the 5th or 6th centuries Celtic monks came over from Wales and established churches such at St Decuman at Watchet, Saint Carantoc at Carhampton, St Dubric at Porlock and St Beuno at Culbone—still, I think, listed in the Guinness Book of Records as the smallest parish church in England. SS Cadoc and Gilda were also present on the islands of Steep Holme and Flat Holme as good places of isolation.

When the Saxons arrived in the 7th and 8th centuries they found a Christian presence but established a new model of worship, creating minister churches as a base for clergy to go out into a neighbourhood, often at preaching crosses or under trees. The Holy Tree site may, for instance, have been an outpost from Ilminster, or possibly South Petherton which we know established branches at Lopen and Merriott. There are some Saxon remains across the county, for example at Shepton Mallett and Milborne Port. There was already a structure of Bishops and Dioceses, and in 909 the Diocese of Bath and Wells was formed when the Diocese of Sherborne, which covered Somerset, Dorset and Wiltshire (and in some versions Devon and Cornwall) was broken up. The presence of over 150 Norman fonts in Somerset shows the great expansion of Christianity.

To come nearer home we don’t know when the church was first built here. In the Doomsday Book there is sometimes a reference to a church, but not for Chiselborough. In 1086 Chiselborough had a Mill and 36 acres of meadow and 3 of scrubland with 5 ploughs. There was obviously a community here at the time and it seems likely that within a couple of hundred years there was a church built on the present site. In the words of Pevsner “between the nave and the crossing slight Norman evidence appears – a capital and two bases of colonettes”. He continues, “This in 1911 was blown up into a full Norman arch”. It is difficult to know how much of the arch was original.

How large a church was there in Norman times? The listing statement from the Department of the Environment says that level with the head of the window at the east end of the vestry are two carved head corbels that may be 12th century. One possibility is that the Norman tower was originally at the West End of the church and that the area now covered by the vestry was the site of the original building. The present vestry is said to be 17th century. However the Norman church could have had a central tower, but this would have been rare.

The Church building

The Nave dates from 1842, and the present ceiling was only put up in 1980. A board by the door records that event when some of the early Victorian bosses were removed and distributed.

A picture of 1837, by J Buckler, shows the porch with a roof of ham stone tiles (now welsh slate). There are no windows in the South side, and the window at the East end, says the Rev G.W. Saunders, Rector of Martock and Rural Dean in the 1930’s and author of an article for the Western Gazette, is 15th century. This may suggest that this was the age of the earlier nave. Other commentators suggest much older, suggesting that it was of typical Early English design of the period 1189 to 1307, so it could date from shortly after the date of the tower.

In his remarks on the church, Edward Langdon (a former parish clerk) writes: “In the year 1839, Nov 10th while Mr Cornwall, Curate, (there is plaque says that he served the parish 19 years and is buried outside) was reading the collect for the day something gave way in the roof of the Church, the whole congregation went out and the service was concluded. The week following the seats and pulpit were moved into the chancel and the first service was held there 17th Nov. Mr Cornwall continued until April 1842”.

The church in Chiselborough continued in a ruinous state until May 1842 when it was taken down—an early initiative of the Rev George Baker Garrow who had “read himself in” on 19th Dec 1841 (-reading 39 articles on first Sunday in the parish was the practice well into the 1970s). Things moved quickly in those days. A vestry meeting was held on July 21st to consult about the building, the parishioners disagreed and had another meeting, but the foundation began to be put in on July 25th and the corner stone was laid, by Mrs Garrow, on August 11th 1842. Langdon gives a description of the procession and service that took place. By Christmas 1842 the roof was on. Langdon was not easily pleased because he described it as slow progress. However the church was finally open for worship again on August 15th 1843 – just a year after the corner stone had been laid. Langdon again describes the services (when a harmonium was brought in) – and notes that £34 was donated on both the day of the laying of the corner stone and on the first Sunday. (In passing he notes the music was composed by Edward Langdon – not mentioning that he, the author, was the said Edward Langdon).

Incidentally this wasn’t the last of Garrow’s building works: in 1844 the new Parsonage at Byme (across the A356) begun being built (now Chiselborough House). One reason given is that Garrow was aware of the tendency towards imbecility within the parish (the famous Chiselborough Goitre) and attributing it to the water supply (now believed to be because of lack of iodine in the water) decided to live on the edge of the parish receiving water from a different source. The official application to the Church Commissioners for a grant simply says that it was unsuitable. The previous building was somewhere off Skillgate Lane and consisted of the parsonage, a stable, a large barn and a wagon house. The old parsonage had two kitchen, two parlours, a pantry, an underground cellar and 5 bedrooms. Some of the stone was used for the new parsonage—and the Garrows moved in the following summer—but the village were not happy, Langdon wrote “the inhabitants of the parish were very much dissatisfied about the building of the new house so far from the village” (Langdon wrote in 1849, but his notes were copied by Mrs F Salisbury, who added at this point “they are still so now in 1910”).

The previous nave seems to have been about the same width—in one version using the same base at this East end of the nave—but the central aisle was much wider. End to end in the present aisle are the graves of Morgan Lodge (Surgeon) and Stephen and Edith Burridge. In the previous nave they were side by side. I’ve no doubt the break in the former happened as they were re-arranged. There was also a gallery at the back of the previous church, which, in the end, had only three seats. The Easter Vestry of 1771 unanimously agreed that a gallery should be built for the singers, and if anyone else wanted to sit there they had to pay the churchwarden 5/- for every seat. The erection of the gallery cost nearly £20 and the churchwarden was empowered to collect rates sufficient to cover the cost. (The right of a churchwarden to impose such a rate was only removed from the legislation in recent years but I’m not sure when it was last successfully applied). A similar rate was applied in 1840 (at 10p in the £1) for the rebuilding of the church. However £800 of the £900 was raised through subscriptions and only £100 from the rates, though it was also noted that the Rev Garrow had to subsequently be repaid the £100 that he had loaned.

The new nave was a lot lighter with the present tall windows. At the West end they included the arms of two families, the Wyndhams and the Strangeways, who became, respectively, the Lords Egremont and Ilchester.

There are times when the vestry is referred to as the chancel and I am not sure whether, in a narrower form, it was ever used as a chancel with a sanctuary at the far end. There are indications in the stone work on the north side, against the tower (seen her from above and from the churchyard) that there may have been a narrower earlier construction. During the 1980 work on the church ceiling it was used as a place of worship. In Saunders account of the church (in the Western Gazette) he described the present altar area: “the floor level has been raised and the altar stands to the east of the eastern arch surrounded on three sides with the altar rails (these are believed to be 1842). Above the modern deal panelling is a well carved cornice and cresting, which appears to be of 16th design. I discover that the faculty for the present oak screen, dated June 1964, says that the previous one should be retained until further notice. From earlier photographs this probably included the Victorian commandment boards.

At the crossing at the back is the raised font. Saunders says it is 15th or 16th century, a belief that continues onto the board at the back with a description of the church. However it is now thought to be early 20th century: this came to light in a letter dated 18th Sept 1995 from Mrs Doreen Shotton to Tod Dalton saying that it was carved by her Great Grandfather, Frederick Salisbury. Subsequently she sent a letter suggesting that “a clue to the age of the font as the restoration time of 1911-1912 could have something to do with it”. We don’t have a description of any earlier font. (Mrs Shotton and her brother Cecil Wiggs stayed in the village with Miss Emmie Salisbury during WW II.)

Within the tower above us are five bells these are now on a metal frame. The earliest three date from 1380, made by a man of Kent, one of only 4 surviving—including one in the cloisters of Worcester Cathedral that I used to walk past frequently. A fourth was added in 1640 and the present five were completed in 1905.

Surmounting the tower is a spire. Spires are rare things in Somerset. Chiselborough is one of about 18. The tower is certainly much older than the spire and it is the tower that hold the bells. It seems that the tower probably had to be strengthened to take the spire. What is the spire date? The official listing description says that it wasn’t mentioned in a description of the church in 1822. But it was certainly there because Langdon records work done in 1806. It may be 15th century.

The weathercock has fallen at least twice – most recently the wing was found by June Perry and put back up on the day that Lewis Cavill died in 2000. There are also photographs of earlier work on the spire.

The Patrons

The patron is the person who has the right to appoint the Rector. Usually it will be the Lord of the Manor. Domesday records the Manor as one of many properties in the hands of the Count of Mortaine (possibly one of the conquerors half brothers). He divided it between William de Echingham and Ralph de la Hay. William died childless and Ralph’s daughter married Thomas de Aldham and their descendent Francis is the first known patron. He died in 1327. Dallimore concedes “it has not been possible to trace the descent of ownership fully through the mediaeval period”. There are two royal patrons, Queen Philippa, and Henry V (just a few years after Agincourt). Certainly in the case of Norton royal patrons exist when they happen to have imprisoned the Lord of the Manor. The only individual to make 4 appointments was Humphrey Lord Stafford between 1464 and 1469 (related to the de la Poles – patrons at Norton) and he was executed, possibly for treason, in 1469. The first mention of the Strangways family, who would be involved in appointments until they transferred the patronage to the Bishop of Bath and Wells by a document dated 11th October 1921, comes in 1519 when Giles Strangways appointed John Nichols. Before Nicholls died Giles had married Joan Wadham (whose brother founded Wadham College at Oxford). The estate was divided between three families over the next two hundred years (in 1742 Lord Ilchester (Thomas Strangeways) owned 50%; and Lord Egremont (Charles Wyndham) one third) from 1817 it was more formally divided and Ilchester held the part with the church, taking over the whole in 1857, and selling up in the famous sale of 1914.

The clergy – up to the 20th century

The average length of stay of the first 20 Rectors was just 10 years. The next 20, up to Michael Balchin, stayed for twice that length, averaging over 23 years. During the whole of the 16th century only two Rectors were appointed, whereas there had been 13 in the previous century. There were only 3 in the 18th century and 3 more in the 19th—but 11 in the 20th. At various times in history the rectors of Chiselborough might have simultaneously been incumbents elsewhere and may never have lived in the parish. Between 1519 and 1902 all the clergyman died in post but none have done so in the past 100 years, either retiring or moving into new livings.

The first named Rector was William Russel, who started on November 18th 1269. He was appointed by the King because John de Gatesden, the tenant in chief, was in custody.

He is followed by John de Kirkeby who also had a royal appointee, this time because Baldwin de Aldham was in custody at the time. In a list called Fasti Ecclessiae Anglicanae (the list of the cathedral clergy from 1006 to 1857) there is a John de Kirkby who died in 1346 having been a Canon of Salisbury Cathedral since 1338. Maybe after 16 years in Chiselborough he served another parish for another 28 years before joining the cathedral for the last 8 years of his life.

I’ve not tracked down much about the early Rectors—though I’m sure there is much to find out. Why, for instance, did two of them, Michael James and John Balsham, both resign in the year they were appointed? Michael James, the Vicar of Sherborne, swapped with John Pudel and was inducted to Chiselborough on October 1st 1430 and then immediately swapped with John Westmere who was incumbent of Branston in Lincolnshire, and he started at Chiselborough 5 weeks later.

In 1465 John Hill and John Coly swapped the livings of Chiselborough and Spaxton—the said John Hill, vicar here for two years in the 15th cent, is buried at Spaxton.

There were two John Creche’s (uncle and nephew) the former was given the honorary title ‘Sir’ because he had not been to university (rather like amateur cricketers were called Mr.) The first John Creche was also vicar of Chardstock, and the second one was also vicar of Axminster.

The earliest familiar name is that of Gawler: Samuel and Thomas were incumbents in the early 17th, and Henry was a patron in 1607. The earliest Gawler in the parish registers was 1559. The floor slab to the North side of the altar marks three of their descendants from the 18th century, and the hill where we mark Good Friday is another memorial of the family.

It is the account of Edward Langdon (1788 – 1870), who was parish clerk for 49 years, that brings to life the 19th century clergy (apart from a 22 year hiatus around the turn of the 19th century, Langdons were parish clerks for around 200 years). Mrs Christine Cavill compiled a fascinating Langdon family tree that incorporates Greenhams, Pattens, Gards and Taylors and Gawlers (- one of several Langdon families in the village).

Nicholas Baker was Rector of this parish 1704 – 1748. Collinson says that there is a memorial to him in the church. It no longer exists, but that to his wife does, with its interesting skull. Baker was succeeded by Rev Whitwick (or Whitewick). The 34 year incumbency of John Forster doesn’t get a mention.

Langdon’s account includes “This Rectory was given to him, (Whitwick) by the Rt Hon Earl of Ilminster of Melbury House, Melbury Osmond, Dorset (which is why many Chiselborough records are held in Dorchester) and he, the rector, resided in Somerton. The first Rector (curate?) I remember was “Briant”, who was curate just prior to 1787. He lived in the Parsonage House and was a bachelor man and fond of his dogs and gun and his bottle and he would curse and swear and get drunk. He was fond of the loose female sex. Some years after he left this Parish he broke his neck by a fall from his horse returning from Crewkerne fair. Very lamentable to any Christian to think of such a Minister. Chiselborough is the Mother Church of West Chinnock. We had service only once a Sunday in those days and one Minister served both churches, Chiselborough and West Chinnock.

“The next curate was Wm. George Doinstrop. He was a married man but no family. His Mother was a Quantock of Norton, after leaving this he lived at Crewkerne where he was accused of (an offence) by one Plowman, a sadler, for which he was confined some time in Ilchester prison.” A second transcript I have seen is less discrete – the offence was sodomy.

“The next curate was Rev. Charles Whitwick, son of the Rector. He was young and fond of hunting. Next was one Lavel. He was a bachelor man and stayed one year. Mr Flece(?) was the next. He served one quarter.”

The next was the Rev John Harbin. Mr Harbin was here in 1807 according to Churchwardens accounts. He was of the family of Harbins of Newton House near Yeovil. He was a married man with three sons; John, Wadom and William. John was rather wild. This minister established a Sunday School. Samuel Greenham, teacher. He went to America with all his family. This Minister was of a sandy complexion and rather hot in his temper.

During his ministry the Rector Whitwick died and the living was given by the Earl of Ilchester to the Revd Chas. Digby. Digby seems tmo have been a resident Rector for a time. But he was also incumbent of a number of other parishes. He lived at Bishop’s Caundle, and was a Canon of Windsor. Most of the ministry was by curates, who most of the time lived in the Rectory.

Mr Harbin left at Lady day (March 25th) 1813.

The Rev PMS Cornwall was the next curate. He married about this time. He served Chiselborough, West Chinnock and Middle Chinnock and then gave up Middle Chinnock. He was a faithful minister and one that always endeavoured to keep peace and quietness among the parishioners and looked well to his flock for the space of 9 years and a quarter. During this time they were blessed with 4 children, 2 sons and 2 daughters. Peter Montmorency Scrope the eldest, John the second, Frances & Mary Jane. Mrs Cornwall was never well after she was confined for her last child. She lay ill for about one year and then she died January 1822. She was buried in the chancel. Mr Cornwall left this parish midsummer 1822.

The next was the Rev Wm Willis. He served one quarter of a year and then left.

Rev James Byers (?) the next curate served about four years and then went to Middle Chinnock.

Rev. Herbert Quiver came at Christmas 1825 and served till June 1827. He was a good minister.

Rev. John Hamdon Shelwell the next curate stayed till Christmas 1831. Not very well liked but he was a good minister.

Rev G Lawson of Middle Chinnock served one quarter 1832.

Rev Cornwall returned and served till April 1842.

Rev Digby, being reduced, went to Germany where he died June 28th 1841. His will, dated 15th March 1841, is held by Lock, Reed & Lock in Dorset.

As we’ve heard Rev G B Garrow came and read himself in on 19 December 1841. Langdon tells us he was often ill and records the names of clergy who took services during Garrow’s absence.

1849 21 August. Mr Garrow and family left the parish for Bala, Merioneth and Mr EN Dickenson came.

28 Sept 1849 Fast day of prayer for stay of cholera. 15 Nov 1849 General thanksgiving for stay of cholera. Although Langdon has applauded the Dickensons he then writes “I am sorry to say that now (Nov 1849) we find a great alteration in their behaviour in the school and with the singers they begun to find a great deal of fault. Some of the girls left that one day, Feb 10th 1850, Mr Dickenson ordered Grace Greenham (the writer’s 23 year old married daughter) to leave her seat, she refused, he went to the pulpit and told her brother to tell her to leave, he refused, he told Ford (the warden I believe), she refused. “ Then, Edward Langdon writes “he called out to me and said ‘Langdon I do insist that Mrs Greenham should leave that seat. I will not start my sermon until she does’. Then I stood up and said ‘I wish all my children should leave the church’ so they obeyed and left.” (-Children and grandchildren). A couple months later the Dickensons tell Edward’s son Edward that he must find more singers. When Edward said he couldn’t, Mrs Dickenson said she would, but without success. The next month they sacked the writer after 26 years as master of the Sunday school. The Dickensons left on June 18th with what Langdon described as “a hearty welcome from the parishioners”.

On 3 July 1850 Mr Garrow and family returned to the parish. Langdon concludes his account with what happened on November 19th 1850. Garrow began morning prayer as usual, but had not preceded very far before the whole congregation perceived he was making a great many mistakes and blunders. He announced Psalm 71, but read Ps 86. He read the Clerk’s lines during the responses. After another go at Psalm 71 he got through the communion service in the most disgraceful manner. He apparently preached a good sermon on Psalm 4:4 but was worse when he went on to West Chinnock where the people called in the Rector of Middle Chinnock to complete the service. All this, concluded Langdon, is through drunkenness.

Mrs Salisbury, writing in 1910, adds that Rev F Newell (1866 – 1902) was next Rector for 35 years. Mrs Newell was a cousin of Earl of Ilchester. He was a good preacher but very proud and reserved. In the latter part of his ministry during a gale the weather vane was blown from the spire and the tail of the bird was blown off. Picked up by some of the villagers, it was sold for old iron for 2d. Soon after a firm of steeplejacks from London was called into re-erect it and they added a new tail and topstone. This was about 1900. The spire was pointed at the same time. From elsewhere I discover that Newell bore most of the costs himself, including £160 for the work on the spire and weathercock. W Newell died Oct 30 1901, aged 83 years.

Mr Whilley (or Whitley) was in charge 8 months. He was very much liked. The parishioners wished him to have the living but it was given to Rev G T Shettle (1902 – 1904). He was a most eloquent preacher during his stay which was too short. Considerable improvements were made including a new iron bell cage and an extra bell added being a treble one. It was also found that the previous work done to the spire was very inferior and another lot of steeplejacks had to be called in and the spire repointed. Lamps also took the place of candles.

The Rev. Shettle changed livings with the Rev. H Chesshire in 1904, as clergy had centuries before (as did Rev Pearse and Rev Stubbs). The pulpit and the reading desk were both lowered in Rev. Newell’s ministry, and the Rev. Howard Chesshire has had them redecorated and a brass book seat added to pulpit and also a Coat of Arms which has been put over the interior of the North Porch.

Mrs Salisbury’s notes are, unfortunately, concluded before the work that discovered the Norman stonework was begun. Pullman’s Weekly in March 1912 reported that the whole of the interior was renovated, the walls distempered, the ceilings painted, the pews stained and varnished; a new oak floor laid at the East end to match the new clergy stall and lectern; the pulpit was raised and other furniture (unspecified) bought, the whole costing £260.

Rev Peter Thomas